The Scene: Miuccia Prada had an austere setup in mind when setting the stage for her Fall 2014 collection. A one-meter high platform was positioned in the center of the room, which was bordered by metal scaffolding. Various geometric excavations punctuated the central stage and part of the audience sat inside these pockets as models weaved past them on a gray runway.
The Inspiration: Act Two to Prada’s Act One menswear show, the collection was inspired by Fassbinder’s 1972 film The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant and other German avant-garde culture references, though the designer admitted the inspiration was “vague.”
The Look: This season, Prada played extensively with sheer fabrics and texture, which rendered many of the clean-lined silhouettes into bold looks. Geometric prints — in neutral and bright colors — were also back this season and plenty of outerwear, which tended to be slightly oversized and boxy. The collection’s best pieces were the more minimalist ones, though it will undoubtedly be the colorful fleece-topped coats that will be most remembered. As for dresses, they too were best when kept simple with geometric prints and tailored silhouettes rather than mixing fur, sheer fabrics, knit sleeves and more into somewhat jumbled looks.
The Accessories: Cut-out geometric sandals, ankle strap heels and knee-high boots, all of which had platform heels. Bags had chain straps along with square or rectangular structured shapes.
The Beauty: Guido Palau noted that hair was inspired by “an off-duty ballerina,” meaning it was pulled into a simple, middle-parted, tight bun. As for makeup, models had red lips, black mascara and blue eye shadow.
The Takeaway: Simple doesn’t always make for the best runway looks, but in Prada’s case, things were best when she stuck to clean lines and geometric prints.
All images: IMAXtree