The Scene: Paul Smith’s theme for Fall 2014 was a harkening back to the days before fast fashion. “People would dress in pajama jackets and dressing gowns,” he told WWD. “They would make clothes out of curtains! That’s how they made their statement.” Now, I may have grown up during the onset of fast fashion, but I’m really not sure that previous to H&M people were dressing in pajamas and curtains. Did Smith take Gone with the Wind too literally as historical fiction or did he just want a philosophical underpinning for his literal interpretation of the pajamas for day concept? Because, really, there’s no need to go to great lengths to convince fashion girls of pajamas for day, especially when they’re this chic. Sign me up.
The Inspiration: As noted, pajamas were a clear inspiration. Prints were inspired by Turkish carpets, lending a sophistication to the collection that these silhouettes in these fabrics might not otherwise have had. He also referenced the late 70s.
The Look: It’s pretty well summed up in “pajamas for day.” There were very literal interpretations like layered silk pajama tops and bottoms in mismatched prints both on top and bottom to give the look a more put-together feeling. And there were robe dresses (a big trend for Fall 2014), sheaths and jackets that gave more of a nod to the pajama in fabric and silhouette, but also looked like real daytime clothes. The prints and colors were really fantastic from pink flocked wallpaper coats to sophisticated jewel-tone stripes. Then there were the non-pajama clothes. Lots of fluid, wide-legged pants. Slouchy suiting ran the gamut from actual sweatshirt material to sophisticated pinstripes with no shirts underneath. There was always a hint of the boudoir.
The Accessories: Striped crossbody bags were chicly utilitarian looking. As we’ve been seeing on other runways, some bags looked more like duffels than purses. There were also lots of loafers.
The Beauty: In keeping with the pajama theme, makeup was simple with just a bright lip. Some girls had ponytails, while others wore their hair loose. The basic vibe was supermodel slumber party.
The Takeaway: Rather superfluous contexts aside, Smith hit on something with this pajama inspiration. These are fashionable, wearable pieces.
All images: IMAXtree